The Beerification of Cider

The last two ciders sent to me by breweries arrived in elegant bottles with dark, wine-like labels–Crispin’s Venus Reigns and the first Cider Master Reserve from 2 Towns. The latter came in a wine bottle with a cork to boot. But in both cases, I was reminded a lot more of special-release beers rather than wine. Both were good. The Crispin was actually a pear wine (like a concentrated perry) aged in wine barrels. It was heavy and rich, and had huge winy overtones. It was perhaps a little too much of a good thing, though I enjoyed it in a decadent way.

The 2 Towns is exceptional–it’s one of the best American ciders I’ve ever had. It’s also winy, but more in the sense that it tastes like a great white. It’s slightly tart, but has round fruit flavors; peach, Meyer lemon, quince, and–well, I don’t know my fruit flavors the way a wine writer would. Sometimes with “heritage” ciders (or whatever cideries call them), you end up admiring them more than enjoying them. But Reserve is pure pleasu …