The Black Squirrel Opens Dunn Loring Location

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“Sensitivity is on the menu in abundance at the Black Squirrel Restaurant at the Dunn-Loring Metro stop, if you believe in the civilizing power of estrogen.

The accidental gender make-up comes out to three female managers and Amy Bowman, the proprietor who has embraced the craft-beer industry the last 10 years in the Adams Morgan neighborhood of the city.

This is her initial foray in the suburbs, on the mean streets of Vienna.

“Hear us purr,” Bowman says.

This was not the plan, if by plan you mean gender was a determinant factor in the process. It was not.

“The outcome merely reflects the growing influence of women in the craft-beer marketplace,” Bowman says. “They were the best available candidates.”

And why not?

Brewing beer was the province of women thousands of years ago, it being deemed a “household assignment” yet essential to human existence. You could depend on a woman’s ale to survive. You could not do the same with the local water.

Paula Pisarek